Petticoat

A petticoat is a type of underskirt worn over other undergarments and beneath an overdress (such as a robe or gown).

The petticoat evolved from the Cotehardie (eng. Kirtle), which is covered in a separate post. Cotehardie is an underdress that was worn over a chemise, with the hem of the skirt often visible beneath the overdress. In the 15th century, its sleeves were shortened or removed, and by the 16th century, the garment gradually split into two parts: the bodice (or corsage) and the skirt, which became the petticoat.

What distinguished the petticoat from other underskirts was that it was meant to be visible. Petticoats were more decorative and almost always colorful, unlike plain underskirts and chemises. They often matched the print or fabric of the overdress. Poorer women might wear only a petticoat as a skirt, with just a chemise underneath. In 16th–18th century paintings, one can see tradeswomen, townspeople, peasants, and servants wearing a bodice and petticoat in public. Wealthier or noble women, however, always wore an overdress when outside the home.

If we see a historical costume without a visible petticoat, it means the skirt is hidden, but it is still present. No one wore an overdress directly over a chemise, pannier, or crinoline — a petticoat was always worn in between.

Petticoats were made from various materials, often taffeta or silk. Trimmings included lace, pleats, embroidery, ribbons, and even jewelry. In colder seasons, they were sometimes quilted for added warmth.

During the Empire fashion period (1800s–1810s), petticoats fell out of use. They returned in the 1820s but were usually hidden beneath the overdress, with only the hem occasionally visible. From the 1830s to 1850s, multiple underskirts and petticoats were worn to achieve a fashionable full silhouette. With the introduction of the crinoline, women might wear a petticoat alone or with another underskirt. In the 1870s–1880s, visible petticoats came back into style. By the 20th century, a petticoat mainly served to add volume to a skirt or dress.